2007 Will Jarvis' Science Project - WineSpectator.com
California Cabernet Sauvignon - WIneSpectator.com These 13 California Cabernets include wines from the exciting 2007 vintage in Napa Valley, along with some exceptional values James Laube Posted: November 9, 2009
It’s not just your imagination: More wines—even sturdy Napa Valley Cabernets that were once held back for bottle age—are being released earlier and earlier. So the 2007 vintage dates you see in this report are not typos. The 2007s are moving to the market even as we’ve just tasted the lion’s share of the 2006s. 2007 is a great vintage for Cabernet, which means it will be easy to find exciting wines, starting with this sampling. Bialla, grown on Atlas Peak, has been fine-tuning its Cabernet, with the 2007 a worthy successor to the outstanding 2006. Cade and Erna Schein made outstanding wines in 2007, while Lindstrom, Selene, Cornerstone and Adobe Road have outstanding 2006s. Selene, Adobe Road and Jarvis’ “Will Jarvis’ Science Project” are at least partly anchored by Cabernet Franc, and considering how important this grape is in so many wines (it is also the most expensive grape in Napa), it’s no wonder it’s making gains, often with a dash of Merlot. You won’t find many $20 Napa Cabernets as good as the Roots Run Deep and its Educated Guess. It stood up with the much higher-priced competition. Truchard is a reliable Cabernet name, too, unique in that it’s from Carneros, so the body and weight are a little more elegant and less weighty than those from up-valley. And once again Bogle ends up with a tremendous wine, a chewy, concentrated 2007 Cabernet for $11. That’s not a typo either.
BIALLA Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2007 Score: 92 | $93 Intense and well-structured, if a bit rustic, this offers a mix of rich currant, mineral, iodine, cedar and tobacco. Once this gets some air, it keeps getting better. Full-bodied, ending with firm tannins, yet the flavors flow through. Best from 2011 through 2019. 260 cases made. —J.L. CADE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Napa Cuvée 2007 Score: 92 | $60 Intense and focused on a rich core of black cherry, currant, plum and cedary oak flavors. Full-bodied and expansive, yet retains a tight focus and a measure of restraint. The flavors pour through on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 4,329 cases made. —J.L. ERNA SCHEIN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Cemetery 2007 Score: 92 | $80 Rich, intense and full-bodied, with a rustic earthy edge to the loamy currant and dried berry flavors that give this a touch of character. Firm and concentrated, gaining depth and richness, with a long, persistent finish. Drink now through 2017. 225 cases made. —J.L. JARVIS Cabernet Franc Napa Valley Will Jarvis' Science Project 2007 Score: 92 | $105 Sleek and elegant, offering a core of ripe, fleshy plum and black cherry fruit, with shades of tobacco and mineral that turn supple and refined. Full-bodied, gaining depth and amplitude on the finish. Drink now through 2016. 391 cases made. —J.L. LINDSTROM Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 2006 Score: 92 | $95 An understated style that wows you with finesse, offering complex aromas of herb, loam, currant, cedar, black olive and sage. Full-bodied, supple, elegant and delicate. Drink now through 2018. 626 cases made. —J.L. SELENE Chesler Napa Valley 2005 Score: 92 | $50 Spice, tobacco leaf, dried currant, sage and berry notes are firm and structured, intense and focused, gaining depth and complexity on the finish, where the minerality comes through with the tannins. Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Better than previously reviewed. Drink now through 2015. 293 cases made. —J.L. CORNERSTONE Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 2006 Score: 91 | $100 A subtle, delicate style, especially for Howell Mountain, showcasing the loamy earth, mineral, dried currant, tobacco and herbal sage notes. Full-bodied and well-balanced, ending with firmer tannins and a dash of anise. Drink now through 2018. 600 cases made. —J.L. ADOBE ROAD Cabernet Franc Knights Valley Bavarian Lion Vineyard 2006 Score: 90 | $38 Tight, firm and concentrated, this full-bodied red offers a complex mix of black cherry, anise, currant, sage and savory flavors that fan out nicely on the finish, turning elegant and supple. Drink now through 2016. 250 cases made. —J.L. ROOTS RUN DEEP Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Educated Guess 2007 Score: 88 | $20 This is intense and firm, with a wild edge to the berry, herb, sage and cedar notes, but it works. Full-bodied, at times elegant, balanced and complex. Drink now through 2015. 25,000 cases made. —J.L. TRUCHARD Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Carneros 2006 Score: 88 | $35 An elegant, understated style that succeeds with its delicate earthy currant, mineral and herbal flavors, picking up tar and pebble notes and gaining depth on the finish. Drink now through 2016. 3,609 cases made. —J.L. BOGLE Cabernet Sauvignon California 2007 Score: 87 | $11 Tight and intense, built around a core of cedary oak, dried currant, herb, mineral and tobacco that are chewy and rustic, with gutsy tannins. Drink now through 2017. 100,000 cases made. —J.L. GOLDSCHMIDT Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Katherine Goldschmidt Crazy Creek Vineyard 2007 Score: 86 | $20 Tight, firm and intense, with concentrated dried currant, loamy earth, sage, herb and cedary tobacco notes, filling out a complex flavor profile. Best from 2011 through 2016. 595 cases made. —J.L. 75 WINE CO. The Sum California 2007 Score: 85 | $22 Intense and spicy, with a mix of dried currant, herb, cola, pepper and spice. Full-bodied, firm and complex, this has a pleasant rustic appeal. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Syrah. Drink now through 2015 10,000 cases made. —J.L.
2007 All-American Turket Day - Will Jarvis' Science Project
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All-American Turkey Day
When it
comes to wine for the turkey table why not toast America? California,
Oregon, Washington, New York, Georgia, and Virginia, are on my
recommended roster, but wine is made in all 50 states. This month,
explore what's available in your own wine backyard.
Whites
The
key to pairing whites with the cacophony of holiday flavors is to find
aromatic wines packed with fruit and freshness. Save oaky, buttery
Chardonnays for another day.
Riesling: A classic grape responsible for dry to dessert wines,
Riesling in all forms is ideal for bridging the spicy, sweet mix of
dishes on the turkey table.
2008 Columbia
Crest "Two Vines," Washington $8 - A bright,
slightly- sweet sipper worth twice the price.
2007 Gainey,
Santa Ynez Valley, California $11 - Deliciously
dry-styled Riesling delivering value.
Evolution #9
American White $17 - From Oregon's Sokol Blosser Winery
this sassy, off-dry blend of Riesling and myriad other varieties rates
thumbs up.
Viognier (pronounced Vee-OHN-yeah): Known for its fleshy texture
and spicy aromas, Viognier can handle the bird and beyond.
2008 Horton
Viognier, Orange County, Virginia $20 - Virginia is the
rising-star region for Viognier and this well-known producer crafts a
delicate, floral-scented version.
2008 Tarara
Viognier, Virgina $30 - For lovers of lush and lovely,
a full-bodied beauty to seek out.
2008 Pine Ridge
Chenin Blanc-Viognier, California $13 - A racy yet rich
combination that can both foil sausage stuffing and embrace sweet
potatoes.
Bubbles and others:
2005 Kluge Blanc
de Blanc Brut SP, Albemarle County, Virginia $28 -
Classy, complex sparkler made from Chardonnay.
2008 Persimmon
Creek Vineyards, Seyval Blanc, Georgia $23 - This
beautifully packaged white from Georgia's top boutique winery shows off
its unique clove and citrus notes.
2008 Wolffer
Estate Rose, The Hamptons Long Island, New York $15 - A
stylish pink drink from one of New York's famous wine names, Wolffer.
Reds Look for
medium-bodied wines with smooth tannins and juicy fruit flavors. Avoid high
alcohol wines that can overwhelm the meal.
Pinot Noir: With signature softness, vibrancy and brightness, Pinot
shines in California, Oregon, and increasingly in New York and Ohio.
2008 Saintsbury "Garnet,"
Carneros, California $20 - Over-delivering quality at an
affordable price, the Garnet is a gem.
2007 King Estate
Domaine Pinot Noir, Oregon $25 - A winery known for their
supple Pinots with classic cherry flavors.
2007 Merry Edwards,
Olivet Lane, Russian River Valley, California $60 - Queen
of California Pinot, Merry's wines are simply stupendous.
Cabernet Franc: This Bordeaux grape variety makes elegantly-styled
reds. Virginia, California, and New York are hot spots for top bottles.
2007 Millbrook
Cabernet Franc, New York $18 - Earthy aromas marry with red
berry fruit in this pretty wine.
2007 Barboursville
"Reserve" Cabernet Franc, Virginia $23 - With a
rich history, this respected winery is crafting sleek and succulent
Cabernet Franc.
2006 White Hall
"Monticello Cuvee des Champs," Virginia $30 -
Seamless blend of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and
Cabernet Franc.
2007 Jarvis
"The Science Project" Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley, California
$105 - Pricey, but nearly perfect wine. With layers of
complexity, you can drink this limited-production bottle now or cellar.
Leslie
Sbrocco is an award-winning author of Wine
for Women and The
Simple & Savvy Wine Guide (HarperCollins), and a
nationally-recognized speaker, and wine consultant. She is host of PBS
television's Check
Please! which has garnered both a James Beard Award and three
Emmy awards. She's also a key judge on the new reality TV series, The Wine
Makers, coming to PBS in September 2009.
